Dolphins. Polymer Clay with Silver Charm. Jean Baardsen |
Ed and I had been talking about leaving the Caribbean and
sailing Tropic Moon up to the States. A
passage from the Virgin Islands to New York would have taken us two-three
weeks. The optimum months for making
this passage were May and June – sandwiched between winter in the States, and
Hurricane Season in the islands. We
were already looking at the end of May, as we sat in St. Maarten.
Ed decided it was time to replace the front stay, which is a
wire that runs from the bow of the boat to the top of the main mast. We attached the wooden bosun’s chair (looked
like a swing seat) to the main halyard.
I used a winch to crank Ed up the mast.
While he was up there, he discovered a large section of wood rot, and
the beginnings of delamination in the mast.
We realized we’d have to have that taken care of before heading to the
States. As we’d probably been sailing
around that way for a while, we chose to continue on to the Virgin Islands, and
have the work done there.
We ended up staying in St. Maarten for almost two
weeks. We left there on May 23rd to do
an overnight sail to Tortola, another 100-mile trip. What should have been a pleasant downwind run turned out to be a
real drag of a sail. There was very
little wind. We spent the first 14
hours crawling along, averaging about two knots. Around 4:00 a.m., after the wind died completely, we started the
engine and motored for the next 14 hours.
With no breeze, the sun that day was unmercifully hot. Because we were traveling downwind, we were
breathing nauseating fumes from the exhaust.
When we reached the Virgin Islands, everything looked so
crowded to us because it was almost a year since we had seen that many islands
grouped so closely together. Several
boats wended their ways up and down the Sir Francis Drake Channel. It felt like coming home.
After
clearing customs in the British Virgin Islands, we contacted Tortola
Yacht Services where we had hauled Tropic Moon the previous year. We
wanted to have the mast pulled out of the boat and repaired. They
couldn't help us because their crane was broken. We then called Nanny Cay
Yacht Services, which is also on Tortola, and scheduled a haul-out date with
them. Since we had to wait for the rotted section of the mast to be
repaired, Ed decided to haul the boat to pull out the propeller shaft, where we
had a leak. And as long as we were going to do all that, we figured we
might as well patch and paint the bottom, and weld on our new zinc
anodes.
I was
really pleased we ended up at Nanny Cay.
They had far superior living facilities than Tortola Yacht Services,
which - in those days - had virtually none. Nanny Cay had a small
short-order restaurant where we ate all our dinners, a gourmet grocery where I
could pick up bread, cheese and salad fixings, a Laundromat where they did my
laundry for me, and really beautiful bathroom and shower facilities.
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