When I look back on our time in the Azores, what I'll
remember most are the days I spent at Othon Silveira's shop. Many yachties - American, French, British,
and German - ended up making the trip along the bay road. Othon's very small basement shop was
generally jammed with people. Othon
spoke Portuguese, French and English fluently, and knew some Spanish and
German. His scrimshaw work - whaling scenes,
square-rigged sailing ships, dolphins, and the like, were really beautiful.
While in Antigua, about four years before, we had met a
British couple, Jill and David, aboard their 28-foot sailboat, Different
Drummer. Jill was helping support them
by selling her scrimshaw work - carvings on whale's teeth. I bought a pendant from Jill. In conversation, Jill had mentioned she and
David had met a man in the Azores, who had taught her the art of scrimshaw.
I asked Othon if he knew Jill White.
"Jill? She is like a sister to me, and David is like a
brother! Do you know them?"
So I told him my story; the next time I visited I wore
Jill's pendant to show him. I brought
Ed with me to place our order. Another
time I brought Krystal, a friend from the yacht Coeur de Lion. Each visit Othon said to me, as he did to
everyone, "Come back anytime, no need to buy. Just visit. Why don't you
try scrimshaw?" The fact that I
couldn't draw didn't seem to faze him.
Krystal and I soon became students, at no cost for either lessons or
materials. We learned to cut and polish
the whale's teeth, as well as do the etchings.
Lunch on the patio with Othon and his wife, Zita - and
whatever other folk were in the shop - became a daily ritual. Krystal and I contributed home-baked breads,
salads, and desserts to go with Zita's meals of fresh tuna, fresh fried
sardines, local sausage, omelets, cheese, tomato salads, and the local wine
from Pico, the neighboring island.
As the summer season drew to a close, and most of the boats
continued on to Europe, Othon began to relax after the pressures of a very busy
few months. Krystal and I continued as
students. Krystal's husband often came
along with us, to cut and polish the teeth, as well as help Othon consume
copious amounts of the Pico wine. One
time Othon decided to demonstrate the alcoholic content of the wine, and poured
a large puddle of it on the basement floor.
He lit it with a match. We had
quite a fire burning in a basement cluttered with benches, cupboards, and
stacks of newspapers and magazines!
Luckily, we didn't burn down the house.
Another day, Othon decided to go through his inventory
of old whale's teeth. We pulled out
boxes and boxes of teeth from under the benches, and dragged them to the patio
that opened off the basement. Someone -
probably Othon - got the crazy idea of burying him with the teeth, like one
might bury someone in the sand at the beach.
When we had finished the job, Othon - tucked into a corner wall of the
patio - was buried under a mound of whale's teeth up to his neck, with only his
head still showing.The tooth Othon carved for us. He added Tropic Moon's name. |
A second view of the tooth. |
Detail. |
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