1984 (6) – A Failure to Communicate

The bay road to Othon's home.

To go to the beginning of this book, Tropic Moon: Memories, click HERE.

Early on in our stay in Horta, I heard of a local man who did scrimshaw work.  I was given vague directions on how to reach his house.  (Cross the hill and follow the bay road out of town a ways.  The number is 53-A, and there's no sign in front).  Right.  So one adventurous day I set off across the hill and started following the bay road.  House numbers stopped and started, but then seemed to run steady.  I finally reached no. 53.  Next door was a big white building with no entrance in front, and then a cross street.  Nothing looked promising, so I stopped a lady on the street. 

"Bom dia!" (Good day).  It would, of course, have helped immensely if I could have spoken Portuguese, but since I couldn't, I tried the word "scrimshaw" on her.  Total incomprehension.  I pointed at my teeth, said "whale" and "scrimshaw," and finally she smiled.  She motioned "Come."  Chattering in Portuguese, she led me to the back of the white building - which turned out to be a Mercedes-Benz repair garage. 

The bay road to Othon's home.

About ten men were standing around.  After determining that none of them spoke English, she told them something in Portuguese, and then left.  I did my pantomime for them, tugging on a tooth.  There was a lot of smiling and nodding.  From the words coming back at me, I suddenly realized I was going to be sent to a dentist! 

"No, no, no!"  Wave the arms.  Try again.  Spread my arms.  "Big whale."  Point out to sea.  Pull on tooth.  "Scrimshaw."  Make the shape of a pendant against my chest. 

The light went on in one man's face, and he started yelling, "Othon! Othon!"  He motioned me to follow him into an office.  There he picked up the phone, dialed, spoke to someone in Portuguese, and then handed the phone to me. 

Close-up of the beautiful buildings.

"Hello?" 

Boy, was I relieved to hear English!  I told the man my predicament; he gave me directions to where I wanted to go.  (Another 600 meters along the bay road, past the fish factory, a sea wall on the left, then the fourth house, No. 53-A).  At the end of the conversation, I finally realized I was speaking with the man I was going to visit. 

He confirmed it, "Yes, I am Othon."