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| Ed and Sam, sitting in the cockpit |
To go to the beginning of this book, Tropic Moon: Memories, click HERE.
Newsletter, March 13, 1979
The day started out ordinarily enough for us - we were still
in our bunks, and Ed was listening to the radio using his earplug. He
turned to tell me that there was a revolution going on in Grenada. It took him a while to convince me he wasn't
making a joke. I was soon listening to the radio along with Ed.
The local radio station, formerly Radio Grenada, was renamed
Radio Free Grenada. The revolution had started about 4:00 a.m. with the
takeover of the radio station, the closing of the airport, and the capture of
the former government's ministers (in their beds, according to the
radio). The PRG (People's Revolutionary Government) identified themselves
as being moderate left. Maurice Bishop
led them. (Three years later, Mr. Bishop would be assassinated during
another revolution, which would subsequently lead to President Reagan
initiating an invasion of Grenada by the U.S. Marines.) The new
government started broadcasting, and actually conducted much of the revolution
by radio. We heard commands given and
orders issued, like: Proceed to such-and-such police station and take
over control.
The radio frequently assured foreign residents and visitors
that we, and our property, were safe, and that we were welcome to stay. Army
orders alternated with revolutionary music.
The most popular song on the radio that day was "Revolution"
by the Beatles. In the afternoon some of the captured ministers broadcast
messages to the people saying that the new government was in control, and that
remaining police stations should surrender. The main resistance was at
the fort on the hill overlooking St. George’s, and at police
headquarters. By the second day both had been taken.
While we discussed the possibility of "making a run for
it" if things got too dangerous, with our deck work unfinished, we weren't
really in the position to go much of anywhere. We felt little fear during
the revolution, as it seemed to be well run and well planned. We took the government at their word when they
assured us of our safety. From what we heard, it was a bloodless
coup. As the previous regime had reportedly been very dictatorial, the
revolution was met with an air of excitement and expectation. The new
government declared a national holiday and no one came to work, including the
two men who were helping Ed lay our new teak deck.
During that day, and for several days after, we heard
sporadic gunfire. The day after the revolution, we got up to the sound of
gunfire and (cautiously) went out on deck. The man who owned the welding
firm, which had done work on our steel hull, had his home/shop just down the
road from GYS, and within view of the marina. The building was surrounded
by troops who were firing in the air and calling for him to come out. When
he did, he was taken away. Rumor had it that he had killed a young man a
couple years before, but had never been brought to trial. It was assumed
that the new government had a few old debts to settle.
I took a water taxi to town two days after the revolution
and all was quiet that day. When I went
into St. George’s a couple days later, soldiers with guns were all over the
wharf in town. They were searching some
yachts. Some men tried to call over my water taxi, but the driver chose
to ignore them. One of the soldiers started to fire his rifle over our
heads. There was another passenger in the boat, a local businessman. He and I pleaded with our driver to pull
over to the wharf, and he finally did. Then our driver started yelling at
the troops that he didn't care if they were old government or new government,
he wasn't going to pay them any mind. He was an old codger, and it was a
wonder he didn't get us shot.
The soldiers were angry by then, and focused on me, the only
white face in the boat. One soldier took my tote bag to search it,
pulling out my credit cards and passport. It made me pretty nervous to
see my passport in that man's hands. Then he held up my credit cards and
asked what they were for. Not wanting to indicate their true value, I
told him they were used for buying gasoline in the States. I was
questioned as to where I was from, where I lived, and where I was going (to the
library as it happened). I was rather shaken up, but everything was
returned to me, and I went on into town.
It turned out the whole search exercise was
unauthorized. The government put a stop
to it, even returning a sizeable sum of money that had been stolen from one of
the sailboats. The culprit in that particular case was made to kneel and
apologize to the owner of the money, before he was carted off to jail. We
had been informed (via the radio) that we could report problems by calling the
radio station. I didn't call, but the next time I was in a water taxi
with my favorite driver, he told me he’d seen what had happened to me, and had
reported the incident to the station.
The dust settled, and day-to-day life returned pretty much
back to normal. We lived under an 8:00 p.m. curfew for the rest of our
time in Grenada. Overnight anchorages on the island were limited to two,
the harbor at St. George and Prickly Bay on the southern shore. Grenada
Yacht Services was patrolled twenty-four hours a day by members of the
PRA. All boats entering and leaving Grenada
were searched.
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| St. George's Waterfront |
March 14, 1979 – The day after the Revolution
I want you to know we are safe and sound. Phone lines have been reopened. I tried to call, but lines will be busy for
a long time. The People’s Revolutionary
Government has reopened the airport.
Once all the panicked tourists have left the island, mail will start
flying again.
Local people are concerned the revolution could cripple the
country, if it kills tourism. Who’s
going to believe it’s safe to come here?
Two cruise ships were due in today, but wouldn’t enter the harbor, and
bypassed Grenada. I was disappointed
because Nancy had asked me to go with she and Jerry to see the “Love Boat”
cruise ship. We were going to have
lunch, and I was going to get a tour.
That would have been nice. On
the more serious side, most of Sand Dollar’s business comes from the cruise
ships. Their business would fold
without the tourists.
Nancy found the revolution exciting. She piled her son, and the maid, Agnes, into
her jeep, and drove downtown to see the revolution. Yes, she’s a little crazy!
Nothing happened that time, but when she was down later, she was stopped
and her car searched. The PRA were
searching all the cars looking for weapons.
That led to Nancy telling me a joke she’d heard. The joke reflects on the poor quality of the
arms being used by the PRA.
The PRA stopped a car and searched it. When the soldiers were finished, they jumped
into their jeep and started to speed away.
Then the jeep slammed on the brakes, and backed up to where a man was
still standing next to his car. One of
the soldiers hopped out of the jeep and was looking for something on the
ground. When he stood up, the civilian
asked him what he was doing. The
soldier held open his hand. “De
bullet,” he said, “she fall out of de gun.”
Yesterday was declared a national holiday, so no one
worked. Today things are back to
normal. I took a water taxi into town
to the Food Fair. There was the usual
crowd, but no big rush on the store.
Maia left this morning, heading for the Panama Canal. I spent last evening with them, sitting
around talking. We’ll be glad when it’s
our turn to go! Speaking of which, Tony
called yesterday. He will be free the
second week in April. I told him to
make reservations for either that week or the following week, depending on what
he can get. Joyce will be coming
too. They’ll be with us for three
weeks.
Word this morning was that there was a battleship in the
harbor, and three more waiting outside.
It turned out to be one Coast Guard vessel from Barbados. The new government invited the American and
Canadian consuls to visit Grenada, and check on the safety of their
people. Remember how we had to see the
American consul in Barbados? They’re
here in Grenada, staying at the Holiday Inn.
Anyone is free to go and see them.
Think I’ll pass! The PRA put a
curfew on the island from 8:30 p.m. to 5:30 a.m., which isn’t any hardship on
us since we’re in bed for the night.
Anyway, there’s no need for you to worry. Ed says, if we had to, we’re well enough put
together; we could sail out of here. I
filled up the water tanks yesterday, just in case.
April 2, 1979
The final sanding on the deck was done this morning. Ed and Doug are attaching the moldings. Sam has stripped the varnish off the cockpit
coaming, and it’s going back in the cockpit before it gets varnished. Guess we really will be ready on time. We still plan to leave Grenada on April 14th. That’s a Saturday. No way we’d leave the day before! I don’t think anything would convince me to start our world cruise
on a Friday the 13th….
It’s rained the last three days, and there have been weird
swells in the harbor, making the boat rock all the time. I lost my balance down below. If that’s happening in the marina, what will
it be like when we’re at sea?
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| St. George's Market Place and Bus Station (Heavily Photoshopped) |
Sex & the Single Tourist
It wasn't that I was single, but that I generally went into
town alone; and this wasn't really about sex, but rather, sexual harassment,
and the unwelcome attention I received when I went into St. Georges. I had
begun to dread my shopping trips. It
wasn't uncommon to be approached in the street, and have a perfect stranger
declare his undying love for me - or his desire to take me to bed. To help
avoid such attentions, I dressed conservatively, and tried to keep a low
profile. I started off being upset and offended, and then became angry, rather
than frightened, when I realized I wasn't physically threatened. I finally learned how to deal with the
unwanted attention.
I was in the grocery store checkout line one day having my
groceries totaled. The young man in
line behind me started going into great detail describing the different parts
of my body. I finally turned and looked him straight in the eye and asked,
"Were you speaking to me?" Grinning, he made another remark. Since
visitors to the islands often have difficulty understanding the West Indian
accent, I continued pretending incomprehension. "What did you say?"
With less of a smile, he repeated his remark. "I'm sorry, but I still
didn't quite get it." He ended up mumbling something about liking my hair,
and then left the checkout line. The woman at the cash register was trying very
hard not to laugh.
When I mentioned my problem to women from other boats, I
found they all had similar complaints. One of the women, Jane, asked me if I’d
ever been offered a playboy. She had frequently been approached with the
question, "Lady, wanna buy a playboy?" And they weren't selling the
magazine. Jane told me one day a young boy had come up to her, and asked the
usual question. She said she had looked down at him, and queried in her best
British tones, "My dear boy, whatever do you think you can do for
me?" Grinning from ear to ear, the little fellow replied, "I got nice
big brother." Now Jane is very well endowed, and I am anything but. I went several months in Grenada without
being offered a playboy. Then, near the end of our five-month stay, I was
walking through town one day when a man leaning against a building called out
to me, "Hey, lady, wanna buy a playboy?" I gave him my most withering
"drop-dead-you-asshole" look, and went on my way, secretly pleased.
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| Note Card from Grenada |
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